Processes for producing transparentized and crinkled cellulosic fabrics



Patented Nov. 28, 1950 PROCESSES FOR PRODUCING TRANSPAR- ENTIZED AND CRINKLED CELLULOSIC FABRICS Georges Hcberlein, deceased, late of Wattwil, Wanne, Switzerland, by Georg Heberlein, Jr., legal heir and administrator, Wattwil, Switzerland, and Ernst Weiss, Wattwil, Switzerland, assignors to Heberlein Patent Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York No Drawing. Application June 12, 1945, Serial No. 599,114

8 Claims.

opaque pigmented patterns, which may appear in whole or in part in either the parchmentized or shrunk pattern areas or in otherwise untreated portions of the fabric. In addition desired pattern areas of the fabric may be left plain, i. e., neither parchmentized, shrunk nor pigmented.

The i'nvention of this application pertains more particularly to various novel methods for producing certain of the patterned effects aforesaid, as defined in the appended claims.

This application is a continuation-in-part of applications Ser. No. 370,156, filed December 14, 1940 now U. S. Patent No. 2,382,416, and Ser. No. 187,027, filed January 26, 1938 now abandoned.

In accordance with the basic concept of the processes above referred to, certain fabric areas according to a desired pattern, are given a parchmentizing or transparentizing treatment and thus rendered more sheer than the original or starting material so treated, while other areas are locally shrunk and hence rendered more compact in appearance and of denser weave than the original material, in addition to which the fabric embodies opaque, locally pigmented areas, in which the pigment is made fast to the fabric and rendered wash-resistant by fixation with a water-insoluble resist or reserve, such at nitroor other ester derivatives of cellulose, lacquer, chlorinated rubber, or the like.

In accordance with an important and novel feature of the invention, these pigmented patterns may, as above stated, be embodied in whole or in part in either the parchmentized areas or in the shrunk areas or in otherwise untreated portions of the starting material, which is ordinarily plain, mercerized cotton fabric.

use of pigment reserves which are permeable only to parchmentizing agents, or permeable only to shrinkage agents, or permeable to either or to neither, depending on the particular effects desired in any given instance.

In this connection we have discovered, for example, that albuminous and casein reserves for the pigment, are substantially impermeable to, i. e., resistant against the action of parchmentizing agents, such as sulfuric acid, but on the other hand are quite permeable to shrinkage agents, such as caustic soda. Likewise, nitro-cellulose pigment reserves can be made relatively impermeable to p-archmentizing agents, but are noticeably affected by shrinkage agents. On the other hand, chlorinated rubber reserves are impermeable both to parchmentizing and shrinkage agents; while acetyl-cellulose reserves are appreciably affected by both parchmentizing and shrinkage agents. Various other wash-resistant and water-insoluble reserves might be mentioned as falling within one or the other of the above categories, but those mentioned will wine to illustrate the selective action that may be obtained as between the pigment reserves on the one hand and the parchmentizing and shrinkage agents on the other.

The processes employed for obtaining pattern effects as above noted will vary somewhat in accordance with the specific pattern effects desired, and may be illustrated by the following:

Process 1.A roll of plain, mercerized cotton fabric is fed progressively through a first print roll for printing a water-insoluble and Wash-resistant pigment reserve onto the fabric in a desired pattern, the fabric being fed thence, in the same printing operation, through a second print roll for applying a second pattern of a watersoluble reserve of gum, vegetable mucilage, or the like, in a desired registered or non-registered relation to the pigment reserve pattern. A gum reserve consisting, for example, of equal parts by weight of water and gum arabic, is impermeable both to parchmentizing agents, such as sulfuric acid, and also to shrinkage agents, such as caustic soda. The entire fabric so printed is then subjected to a parchmentizing treatment in a bath of sulfuric acid, thereby to parchmentize the exposed or unprinted areas. The fabric is thereupon washed to remove the gum reserve, and the entire fabric is subjected to shrinkage treatment in an alkali bath, such as caustic soda, whereby the areas formerly protected by the gum reserve are shrunk. The shrinkage agent does not shrink the transparentized areas, but merely enhances their sheerness. The effect of the parchmentizing and shrinkage treatments on the pigmented areas is discussed below,

3 The finished fabric is thereby ornamented with pattern areas which are parchmentized, other pattern areas which are shrunk, and pattern areas containing the wash-resistant pigment reserve. The pigmented areas may appear in whole or in part in either the parchmentized or shrunk areas or in fabric areas which are neither parchmentized nor shrunk, depending on the predetermined pattern desired and on the pi ment reserves employed, i. a, Whether they are permeable to acid, or only to alkali, or to neither. It is to be noted in connection with the above process, that there are two ways of preventing the pigment printed areas from being affected by the parchmentizing treatment. One is to employ a pigment reserve, such as nitrocellulose, which is impermeable to the acid but permeable to caustic; the other is to overprint the pigment reserve with a water-soluble gum reserve, in which event the gumreserveprotects the pigmerit reserve during the parchmentinhg treatment, after which the um reserve is removed by washing. In this case a pigment reserve is empioyed which is ermeable to caustic if it is desired to shrink these areas; or with a pigment reserve impermeable to caustic if it 'is desired to have these areas unshrunk.

"specific e am les illustrative of the above process are the following:

Example I A mercerized mousseline fabric is fed progressively through a first print roll which prints thereon according to a desired pattern, a, waterinsoluble and wash-resistant pigment reserve consisting of:

230 grams titaniumwhite 45 grains acetyl cellulose 37 grams ethylene chlorhydrin 355 grams water In the same machine, the fabric is then fed through a second print roll which prints in regupon the fabric is given a shrinkage treatment.

with a caustic soda solution of merceri'zing strength, for instance 38 Be, on steeping for in stance during 10 seconds without tension. The material is then pressed out, le ft to itself for several minutes and allowed to shrink, and is then rinsed hot. After the usual acidifying to neutralize the alkali, followed by water rinsing, the fabric is dried under the least possible tenmen.

As a result of the above treatments the pattern areas initially exposed to the parchmenti'zihg agent, i. e., the areas initiall unprotected by the gum reserve, are parchmentized; while the areas initially protected by the gum reserve, are shrunk, due to removal of this reserve prior to shrinkage treatment.

since the acetyl cellulose pigment reserve is permeable both to parchmentizing and shrinkage agents, the effect of the above treatments on the pigmented areas will depend on the extent to which the gum printedareas overlap thepigment printed areas. If the gum resist wholly overlaps the pigment printed areas, these areas will be protected against the parchmentizing treatment and hence will be shrunk, due to subsequent exposure to the shrinkage treatment on removal of the gum reserve. Conversely, if the gum printed areas do not encroach upon the pigment printed areas, these areas will be parchmentized due to exposure to the parchmentizing treatment. Finally if the gum printed areas only partially overlap the pigment printed areas, the initially exposed portions will be parchmentized and the remaining portions subsequently shrunk.

The pigmented areas which are parchmentized are merely stiffened, but remain opaque due to the presence of the pigment. The remaining parchmentized areas are, however, transparentized, and the subsequent shrinkage treatment produces no shrinkage of these portions but merely imparts enhanced sheerness thereto. .On the other hand the shrinkage treatment shrinks and thus increases the density of weave of the unparchinentized areas, the two effects above noted thus enhancing the optical contrast between the transparentized and shrunk portions.

Also the shrinkage of the unpa-rchmentized areas produces undulations or puckered effects in the fabric due to the shrinkage of the areas in contrast to the nonsh'rinka'ge of the parchmentized areas.

Example II The fabric is pattern printed with a pigment resist made up as follows:

50 grams chlorinated rubber 1'75 grams toluol 30 grains American pine oil grams titanium white and in registry therewith, in the same printin operation, is printed with a gum reserve as aforesaid. Thereupon the fabric is subjected to the above mentioned parchmentizing treatment, washed and dried, and subjected to shrinkage treatment as aforesaid.

Since the chlorinated rubber resist is imper meable both to parchmentizing and shrinkage agents, the pigment reserved areas are neither parchmentized nor shrunk. The gum printed, non-pigmented areas are shrunk, while the nonpigmented initially exposed areas are transparentized. 7

Process 2.-The ornamental effects above discussed may be obtained by an alternative procedure of directly printing the fabric with a pigment resist and with a parchmentiz ing paste, rather than by printing with a water-soluble g'um reserve followed by treatment in a parchmentizing bath. In accordance with this alternative, the original -fabric is fed through successive print rolls, the first of which applies the wash-resistant pigment reserve in a desired pattern, which is dried on the way to the second print r'oll while the second rint roll applies theparch nienti'zing paste (such as zinc chloride or potassium thiocyanate solution thickened with cellulose) in a desired relation to the pigmented pat:- tern. After drying and heating to develop the parchmentized pattern, and washing, the fabric is subjected to shrinkage treatment in an alkali bath.

Here again the fabric will contain locally parchmentized pattern areas, locally shrunk areas, and wash-resistant pigmented areas, which may a ear in whole or in part in the archmentized areas, in the shrunk areas, "or in areas The fabric is pattern printed on a first print roll with an acetyl cellulose pigment resist as in Example I, and dried on the way to a second print roll where it is printed in a different pattern with a parchmentizing paste consisting of:

69.5.grams zinc chloride 30.5 grams water 1.8 grams viscose or with a parchmentizin paste consisting of:

- 710 grams crystallized calcium thiocyanate 106 grams water 22 grams viscose waste The fabric is thereupon dried and heated at about 80 to 100 to develop the parchmentizing effect, and preferably washed and again dried, following which it is'subjected to shrinkage treatment as in Example I.

The pattern areas printed with the parchmentizing paste will be parchmentized, including such pigment reserved areas as may be overprinted with the parchmentizing agent; while the remaining areas will be shrunk, including such pigmented areas as are not parchmentized in the manner aforesaid. In this connection it is to be borne in mind that the pigment reserved areas may be wholly or only partially parchmentized and wholly or only partially .shrunk, depending on the extent to which the pigment reserve is overprinted with the parchmentizing paste.

Substitution of a chlorinated rubber for the acetyl-cellulose pigment reserve would result in pigmented areas which are neither parchmentized nor shrunk, against a background of locally transparentized and locally shrunk pattern areas.

Process 3.According to another important modification of the invention, the original fabric may be fed successively through a pair of print rolls, one of which applies a wash-resistant pigment reserve in a desired pattern, and the other of which applies a gum reserve. The entire fabric is thereupon subjected to a parchmentizing treatment in an acid bath, and washed to remove the gum reserve. Thereupon the entire fabric is again printed with a gum reserve, but in a different pattern from the original gum reserve, for example in stripes, and the entire fabric so print-ed, subjected to shrinkage treatment in an alkali bath, and then washed out to remove the second gum reserve.

The resulting fabric will contain parchmentized pattern areas, locally shrunk pattern areas, and fabric areas which are neither parchmentized nor shrunk, together with areas embodying the wash-resistant pigment, which may appear in whole or in part in either the parchmentized, shrunk or otherwise untreated fabric areas, de-

pending on the pigment reserve employed, and

on the relative arrangement of the pigment and gum reserves.

If, for example, a pigment reserve, such as chlorinated rubber, is used which is impermeable to both parchmentizing and shrinkage treat- ;ments, the pigment will appear in fabric areas which are neither parchmentized. nor shrunk.

If, on the other hand, the pigment reserve-used is impermeable to acid but permeable to alkali, such as nitrocellulose, the pigmented areas will not be parchmentized, but will be locally shrunk in part and locally unshrunk in part, owing to partial protection from the shrinkage treatment by the second gum printing. This same result is also obtained if a pigment reserve is used which is permeable to both parchmentizing and shrinkage, such as acetyl cellulose, but the pigment reserve is overprinted by the first gum re.- serve and hence protected from the parchmentizing treatment.

Example IV A .mercerized mousseline fabric is pattern printed on a first print roll with a pigment re'-'- serve consisting of 180 grams nitrocellulose (including 35% butanol) 450 grams amylacetate grams ethylacetate 20 grams ethyl alcohol 200 grams colored titanium white (T102) and, in the same machine, on successive print rolls, is printed with one or more gum reserves which may contain different colored dyestuffs. After drying, the fabric is passed through transparentizing sulfuric acid of 54 B. for 8 seconds at 15 C. whereupon it is immediately washed to remove the gum reserve, and dried. Then the fabric is again printed with a gum resist'in a different pattermfor example in spaced stripes, and is given a shrinkage treatment with a caus-v tic soda solution of mercerizing strength, for instance 38 B. on steeping for example during 10 seconds without tension. Then the material is pressed out, is left to itself for several minutes and allowed to shrink, and is rinsed hoti After the usual acidifying and rinsing, the fabric is dried under the least possible tension.

Since the nitrocellulose pigment reserve employed is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents, neither the pigment reserved areas nor the initially gum printed areas are affected by the archmentizing agent, so that only the exposed, untreated areas are parchmentized, i. e. transparentized. On subsequent removal of the initial gum reserves followed by the second gum reserve printing in spaced stripes and overall treatment with the shrinkage agent, the exposed portions of the theretofore untreated areas, are shrunk, as are also the exposed portions of the pigmented areas, since the nitrocellulose reserve is permeable to caustic. Also the exposed portions of the transparentized areas are rendered more sheer. Thus on washing to remove the final gum reserve, the fabric will be found to embody transparentized patterns embodying alternating areas of greater and lesser Sheerness, respectivelythe so-called shado-ripple effectagainst a background of pigmented and unpigmented pattern areas embodying alternately shrunk and unshrunk portions. Owing to the localized shrinkage in the background areas together -'with the absence of shrinkage in the parchmentized areas, the fabric assumes an overall crinkly or puckered effect. Also if dyes are employed in the initial gum reserves, the areas printed therewith will be correspondingly dyed.

If in the above example a chlorinated rubber pigment reserve like Example II-impermeable both to parchmentizing and shrinkage treatmenthad been employed, the pigment reserved areas would remain wholly unparchmentized and,

anemia parchmentized and stiffened, while the .remaining portions would be alternately shrunk and unshrunk.

Process 4.-Ornamental effects similar to those just described, may be obtained by various modifications of Process 3. Thus in place of the initial gum printing followed by overall treatment of the fabric in a sulfuric acid "bath, to parchmentize selected areas, there maybe substituted the single step of directly printing these areas with a parchmentizing paste, as in Example III. Likewise, instead of the final gum printing followed by overall treatment in caustic soda solution to shrink selected areas, there may be substituted the single step of directly printing these areas with a suitable printing paste containing a shrinkage agent, such as a strong caustic soda solution thickened with gum arabic.

.It is to be understood of course that either or both of the above mentioned equivalent procedures may .be substituted for the gum printing and bath treatment procedures of Process 3, without departing :from the spirit of this invention. For example, .parchmentizing may be effected by ,gum printing and subsequent overall treatment .in sulfuric acid, while the localized shrinkage may be thereafter effected by direct printing of a shrinkage paste. Alternatively, parchmentizing ma :be obtained by direct printing of .a parchmentizing paste, followed by gum printing and overall treatment in caustic soda solution .for effecting localized shrinkage. Or both of the above one-step procedures may be substituted for the equivalent two-step proce- .dures of Process 3 .for parchmentizing desired pattern areas and for shrinking otherjpattern areas.

Thus :in accordance with the procedure last mentioned, the fabric to be ornamented, ma be lied initially through .a first print roll which prints a pigment resist according to a selected gpattern, which resist .is dried on "the Way to a second print roll, which prints onto the fabric a ,parchmentizing paste according ,to a different pattern. preferably in adesired registered rela- -..tion with respect to the Pigment pattern. The

fabric 'is then dried and heated to develop the marchmentizing effect, .as explained in Example .111, and is preferably washed and again dried. Thereupcn the =fabric is fed through a print .roll which applies a paste containing shrinkage agent according to a different pattern, for .example, instripes.

It may :be stated quite generally with .respect ito :theprocesses above-described, that where relatively large pattern areas are to be parchzmentized :or shrunk, better and i more economical results are obtained by the :above mentioned twostep procedures of :gum printing to .reserve desiredrareas followed by overall treatment of the fabric in a parchmentizing or shinkage :bath, as

the a case may be. On the other hand where only rsma'll areas are to be parchmentized or shrunk, this is best accomplished by direct "printing of .a *parohmentizing .or shrinkage paste onto the Accordingly in the processes described thus for where a parchmentizing bath is employed for reasons above stated, two resists have ape plied {to the fabric prior to parchmentizing. vone being the water-insoluble pigment resist and the other the water-soluble gum resist, the latter to reserve areas for subsequent incorporation of lo- .calized shrinkage effects as above noted.

Where it is desired, however, to incorporate such localized shrinkage effects :onl in the pig'- ment printed areas, the step of pattern printing with :a ,gum resist prior to :parchmentizing be dispensed with provided a pigment resist is employed which is impermeable to parchmentizing but permeable "to shrinkage agents. As above stated nitrocellulose is a resist of this character, and where it 'r-iS employed under the conditions just described, only one resist, namely, the pigment resist need be printed on the fabric prior to parchmentizing. Much more pleasing effects are obtained, howeverjby initially pattern printing the fabric with two or more such pigment resists in different colors.

Process :5.-In accordance with the above, the fabric is initially epattern printed with at least one and preferably with two or more pigment re- 'sists :in different colors, the resists being impermeable to acid but permeable to shrinkage agents, for example, the nitrocellulose resist :of Example 1V. Thereupon the fabric is subjected to overall treatment in :a .parchmentizing bath of sulfuric acid as in Example EV, to transparentize the non-pigmented areas. After washing and drying the fabric is printed :with a water-soluble gum reserve, for example, in stripes and is subjected to overall shrinkage treatment in -,.a1'bath of caustic soda .as in Example 51V, and further treated asset forth therein to eifect'shrinkageof the exposed areas.

In consequence of this treatment the fabric will comprise pigmented pattern areas against a transparentized background. The pigmented areas will embody alternating shrunk and unshrunk portions, and the localized shrinkage effected therein in contrast to the non-shrinkage of theparchmentized areas,will-produce an overallcrinkly or puckered effect in the fabric.

Example .V

A mercerized cotton fabric is printed with one or 'more pigment resists, substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents, but permeable "to shrinkage agents, and consisting, for example, of

180 gramsnitrocellulose (including 35% butanol') 450 grams amylacetate .150 grams ethylacetate 21) grams ethyl alcohol 200 grams colored titanium white (TiOz) the exposed, non-pigmented fabric areas, are

transparentized.

The fabric is then printed in-a different pattern, for example in stripes, with a water-soluble, gum reserve, and subjected to overallshrinkage treatment in a 'bathof :caustic 'sodasolution, of mercer zms stren th. zinc-instance ass-rams thereafter-subjected to finishing treatment as in Example I.

, In consequence of this treatment, the exposed portions of the transparentized areas, are rendered more sheer than the gum printed areas, giving the above-mentioned Shado-Ripple effect. The remaining exposed pigmented portions of the fabric, are shrunk; while the gum printed portions thereof, remain unshrunk, to give shrunk and unshrunk pigmented portions.

In addition to the above effects, the fabric also embodies overall undulatory or crinkled effects, owing to the localized shrinkage of the areas above described.

Instead of the final gum printing and overall treatment in the bath of caustic soda for effecting the above mentioned localized shrinkage, there may be substituted the single step of pattern printing the fabric with a printing paste containing a shrinkage agent, as mentioned above.

Process 6.Process may be reversed by first pattern printing the fabric with only a Watersoluble or gum resist, followed by overall parchmentizing treatment in an acid bath and washing to remove the gum reserve; whereupon the fabric is printed in a different pattern with the wash-resistant, pigment resist, and the fabric then subjected to overall shrinkage treatment in an alkali bath. A pigment resist may be cmployed which is permeable to shrinkage treatment, or one which is impermeable to shrinkage treatment, depending upon whether or not it is desirable to have the shrinkage effects appear in the pigmented areas. gum reserve followed by overall treatment in a parchmentizing bath, the fabric may be initially printed with a parchmentizing paste and thereafter printed with a pigment resist and optionally also with a gum resist. are illustrative:

' Example VI .The fabric is now printed according to a different pattern with a water-insoluble and washresistant pigment reserve impermeable to shrink age agents, and consisting of:

50 grams chlorinated rubber 175 grams toluol 25 grams American pine oil 80 grams titanium white Thereupon the fabric is subjected to overall shrinkage treatment in a bath of caustic soda of a strength 38 B. on steeping for about seconds without tension, and subjected to finishing treatment as in Example I.

As a result of this treatment the non-pigmented and non-transparentized areas will be shrunk, and thus assume a denser weave and more compact appearance than the surrounding areas; while the transparentized areas will be rendered more sheer. The pigment reserved areas will be neither parchmentized nor shrunk,

Also instead of the initial The following examples ric will also embody overall crinkled and cockled effects.

Example VII A pattern is applied to a mercerized mousseline fabric by printing the same, at room temperature, with a parchmentizing paste as follows:

69.5 grams zinc chloride 30.5 grams water 1.8 grams viscose Thereupon the fabric is dried and heated at about to C. to develop the parchmentizing eifect, washed and again dried. The fabric is then printed in registry, on successive print rolls, with a chlorinated rubber, pigment resist as in Example VI and also with a water-soluble gum resist, and it is thereupon subjected to overall shrinkage treatment and otherwise finished as in Example VI.

The areas printed with the parchmentizing paste will be transparentized. The pigment printed areas will be neither parchmentized nor shrunk, but may overlap and thus pigment the transparentized areas. The otherwise untreated areas which were not protected by the gum reserve, will be shrunk; while the portions thereof which were protected by the gum reserve, will retain the mercerized finish of the original fabric. If the acetyl cellulose pigment reserve of Example I had .beenemployed, the localized shrinkage eiTects could be arranged to appear also in the pigment printed areas, for example by partial overprinting with the gum reserve.

What is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent, is:

1. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with at least one pigment-containing, washresistant, water-insoluble reserve which is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents but permeable to shrinkage agents, while leaving all unpigmented areas of said fabric unreserved, subjecting the fabric to overall parchmentizing treatment, thereby to parchmentize all said unpigmented areas, and subjecting at least portions of the fabric, including at least portions of the pigmented areas, to shrinkage treatment without tension, thereby to impart to the areas so treated, shrinkage effects in the pigmented portions and a different sheerness in the parchmentized portions.

2. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with at least one pigment-containing, washresistant, water-insoluble reserve, which is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents but permeable to shrinkage agents, while leaving all unpigmented areas of said fabric unreserved, subjecting the fabric to overallparchmentizing treatment, thereby to parchmentize all of said unpigrnented areas, thereupon printing the fabric, including at least portions of the pigmented areas, in a difierent pattern with a water-soluble reserve which is substantially impermeable to shrinkage agents, and subjecting the fabric to overall shrinkage treatment without tension thereb to impart to the fabric areas exposed to said treatment, local shrinkage effects in the pigmented portions and a different sheerness 1n the parchmentized portions.

3. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellul'osic fab, rics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric, in registered relation, with a plurality of differently colored, pigment-containing, wash-resistant, water-insoluble reserves, which are substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents, but permeable to shrinkage agents, while leaving all unpigmented areas of said fabric unreserved, thereupon subjecting the fabric to overall parchmentizing treatment, thereby to parchmentize all of said unpigmented areas, and thereupon subjecting at least portions of the fabric, including at least portions of said pigmented areas, to shrinkage treatment without. tension, thereby to impart to the areas so treated, shrinkage effects in the pigmentedv portions and a different sheerness. in the parchmentized portions.

4-. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effectsin cellulosic fabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with a pigment-containing, Wash-resistant, water-insoluble reserve which is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents, but permeable to shrinkage agents, while leaving all unpigmented areas of said fabric unreserved, thereafter subjecting the fabric to overall parchmentizing treatment, thereby to parchmentize all of said unpigmented areas, thereupon. printing the fabric, including at least portions of the pigmented areas, in a different pattern with a shrinkage agent and allowing the fabric to lie without ten-- sion, thereby to impart. to the areas so printed, shrinkage effects in the pigmented portions and a different Sheerness in the parchmentized portions.

5. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosiefabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with at least one pigment-containing, wash-resistant, water-insoluble reserve which is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents but permeable to shrinkage agents, while leaving all unpigmented areas of said fabric unreserved, thereafter subjecting the fabric. to overall parchmentizing treatment, thereby to parchmentize all of said unpigmented areas, and thereupon sub jecting the fabric to overall shrinkage treatment without tension, thereby to shrink all of said pigmented areas and to impart to all of said parch-mentized areas, a differentsheerness but without shrinkage therein.

6. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with at least one pigment-containing, wash-resi'stant, water-insoluble, nitrocellulose reserve which is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents but permeable to shrinkage agents, while leaving all unpigmented areas of said fabric; unreserved, subjecting the fabric to overall parchmentizingtreatment, thereby to perchmentize all said unpigmented areas, and subjecting at least portions of the fabric, including at least portions of the pigmented areas, to shrinkage treatment without tension, thereby to impart to the areas so treated, shrinkage effects in the pigmented portions and a difierent sheerness in the parchmentized portions.

7. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with at least one pigment-containing, wash resistant, water-insoluble, nitrocellulose reserve which is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents but permeable to shrinkage agents, while leaving all unpigmented areas of said fabric unreserved, subjecting the fabric to overall parchmentizing treatment, thereby to parchmentize all of said unpi'gmented areas, thereupon printing the fabric, including at least portions of the pigmented areas, in a different pattern with a water-soluble reserve which is substantially impermeable to shrinkage agents, and subjecting the fabric to overall shrinkage treatment without tension, thereby to impart to the fabric areas exposed to said treatment, local shrinkage effects in the pigmented portions and a different Sheerness in the parchmentized portions.

8. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with at least one pigment-containing, washresistant, water-insoluble, nitrocellulose reserve which is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents but permeable to shrinkage agents, while leaving allunpigmented areas of said fabric unreserved, thereafter subjecting the fabric to overall parchmentizing treatment, thereby to parch-mentize all of said unpigmente'd areas, and thereupon subjecting the fabric to overall shrinkage treatment without tension,

thereby to shrink all of said pigmented areas and to impart to all of said parchmentized areas, a different sheerness but without shrinkage there- 1n.

GEORG HEBERLEIN, J-Ru Legal. Heir and Administrator of the Estate of Georges Heberlein, Decfease'd.

ERNST WEISS.

REFERENCES CITED- The following references are of record in. the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number v Name Date 1,482,076 Fourneaux. Jan. 29, 1924 2,075,695 Bodmer Mar; 30, 1937 2,085,946 Bodmer et a1 July 6, 1937 2,087,226 Huey July 13,1937 2,098,775 Goencz et a1. Nov. 9, 1937 2,099,782 Weiss Nov. 23, 1937 2,104,748 Huey et a1 Jan. 11, 1938 2,112,895 Heberlein et a1 Apr. 5, 1938 2,121,755 Heberlein June 21, 1938 2,171,513 Heberlein Aug. 29, 1939 2,200,792 Hefti May 14 1940 2,233,609 Heberlein Aug. 29,, 1 .941 2,382,416 Heberlein Aug. 14, 1945 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 227,480 Great Britain Jan. 19, 1925 

1. A PROCESS FOR PRODUCING PERMANENT AND WASH-RESISTANT PATTER EFFECTS IN CELLULOSIC FABRICS, WHICH COMPRISES: PATTERN PRINTING THE FABRIC WITH AT LEAST ONE PIGMENT-CONTAINING, WASHRESISTANT, WATER-INSOLUBLE RESERVE WHICH IS SUBSTANTIALLY IMPREMEABLE TO PARCHMENTIZING AGENTS BUT PERMEABLE TO SHRINKAGE AGENTS, WHILE LEAVING ALL UNPIGMENTED AREAS OF SAID FABRIC UNRESERVED, SUBJECTING THE FABRIC TO OVERALL PARCHMENTIZING TREATMENT, THEREBY TO PARCHMENTIZE ALL SAID UNPIGMENTED AREAS, AND SUBJECTING AT LEAST PORTIONS OF THE FABRIC, INCLUDING AT LEAST PORTIONS OF THE PIGMENTED AREAS, TO SHRINKAGE TREATMENT WITHOUT TENSION, THEREBY TO IMPART TO THE AREAS SO TREATED, SHRINKAGE EFFECTS IN THE PIGMENTED PORTIONS AND A DIFFERENT SHEERNESS IN THE PARCHMENTIZED PORTIONS. 